// August 4th - Machu Picchu // Altitude 2430 m // Out of the travel journal //




I'm beyond exhausted. As planned, we woke up at 3.30 am and started walking to the gate where they checked the passports shortly after 4 am. Now, in the dark, early (way too early after the last night!) morning, we began the ascent. Over 3000 steps separated us, still at an altitude of 2040 m, from the top of the mountain with 2430 m to reach Machu Picchu, high up in the clouds. Of course after so much walking nobody wanted to give up on the last day and take the bus.

// August 3rd - Aguas Calientes // Altitude 2040 m // Out of the travel journal //



I woke up with fever and nausea. I was mad. I didn't want to give up. But also I had to keep in mind that there were still another 43 days of traveling ahead of me. Since a few people got sick I knew there was a bus going to our lunch spot, which otherwise would be a 16 km hike through the jungle. It took me a lot to get over my pride, but at some point I gave in and took the bus. So did one of the Argentinians. 

So both of us got off the bus, joined the group who still were at the end of the street, and  started our still 15.2 km or so hike into the heart of the jungle. 


After two minutes later we passed the first waterfall. After five minutes we passed our group. After eight minutes we stopped in a small village to pick up way too many locals. My legs felt restless, I was squirrelly, caught up in an inner discussion, pondering, until I finally bursted out "Quiero caminar!". 

Passing waterfalls, avocado and banana trees and coffee plants. 
It was really warm, such a difference to the day before, we hiked in shirts and shorts and stopped for a break to bath our feet in an ice cold stream of water.
We continued our way over scary bridges made out of straw and dirt, we saw hummingbirds and enjoyed great views over the Lluskamayo River. 
Wether it was the medicine or the endorphins, or both, the hike wasn't bad at all. 
It was a bit hilly, "Peruvian flat", and when we reached the lunch place, Playa, at an easy altitude of 2250 m, we weren't even out of breath. 

After great ceviche we took a van to the hydroelectric station. Also an adventure. With the curtains in the back closed, the driver drove backwards, with the cliff down the jungle right next to us, to move out of the way for another car. Pretty scary. 
The rest of the kind of short drive was spent either sleeping or laughing about the continuous honking and the 90ies music.

Afterwards we hiked for about three hours for another 10 or 11 km, following the tracks of the PeruRail, on the way we also got a first glimpse at Machu Picchu, it was so far up in the mountains. 

We reached Aguas Calientes not long after the sunset. After a very rude welcome in the hostel my room / tent mate Sabine took a cold shower, since we had no hot water. In Aguas Calientes, insert silly pun here.

We told one of the employees, she turned on the water - this time it was hot. 
So she told us that we have to use the red knob. No way. Thank you lady, I've been wondering for the past 25 years why there's a blue and a red one. 

Later we went for a pretty crappy dinner before drowning the shock over Peruvian service in some cervezas in a nearby bar. After those, some impressive dance skills of the Costa Rican girls and less impressive dance moves of the poor kitten that the DJ brought with him, we went to bed way too late, which left about 3 hours of sleep. 

But who needs sleep anyways if the next adventure awaits? 

// August 2nd - Salkantay Pass // Altitude 4630 m // Out of the travel journal //



"You will go back as a different person. Leave worries, pain and negativity behind. Let us pray to the mountains."
Salkantay. Humantay. Tucarhuay. Urubamba.
The four sacred mountains that surrounded us. At an altitude of 4630 m, we blew our coca leaves that would be a gift for the Pachamama, while turning into the direction of each mountain.
Then we thanked the four mountains, before placing the leaves and the rocks that we picked, building a cairn.

We reached the top around 9.30 am, after about 3.5 h of hiking. It was hard, a very steep, challenging hike, over frozen waterfalls, rocks, slipping - but never falling - over and over again.
And it was freezing cold, especially after a night with maybe 2 hours of sleep before. Our cold feet just didn't let us sleep. I was wearing three pairs of socks in the night, and ended up even putting my gloves over my feet and wrapping my scarf around it.

But already on the way to the top we were rewarded with so many amazing views. The Salkantay, in the distance at first, which glowed in a mystical pink in the early morning light. We walked about two hours before the first sunrays started to warm our faces.
And when we finally reached the top, the highest point of our trail, I felt so incredibly lucky, happy, incredible. I was so overwhelmed.

After the last people of our group got there we sat down with our guide to learn about the mountains surrounding us, Cusco and the Inka culture, before we held the little ceremony.

Down to our lunch place wasn't hard at all, and again we had this beautiful landscape around us.
From about 3900 m and after a few hours of hiking we started the descent, into the jungle.

After about two more hours it got harder, too, it was tough on our knees.
We pushed through, until we reached our camp for the night, another three hours, in total 22 km for this day. Going from 4600 to 2900 m the sudden change of altitude made quite a few people sick. I also started feeling uneasy, but I took some medicine so hopefully it will be better tomorrow.

The views of the landscapes today were unforgettable.
The mountains, so high, you feel so unimportant, your worries or mistakes pointless. And I was proud that I kept pushing myself, even though I feel like I didn't completely reach my limit yet.
We saw amazing, wonderful pictures that nature painted for us.

At some point two porters passed us, playing Madonna's "Like a virgin" on their portable speakers. And then - silence again. For a long time. And despite traveling in a group I felt alone with my thoughts, content.

I'm so grateful that I'm experiencing this.

// August 1st - Foot of the Humantay Mountain // Altitude 3900 m // Out of the travel journal //


Euphoria. A single word to describe this day. Everything. The nature. The emotions. It's perfection.  Okay, sure, the start early this morning was, well, chaotic.
I got picked up from my Airbnb around 5 am and we picked up two other travelers at the market place where I witnessed the crazy scene the day before. One of them was German, the other one was one of the Canadians I met the night before.
We drove to Mollepata to get some breakfast, pure chaos, no cambio, but we made it on the bus that took us to the starting point eventually. We met the group that we'd walk the Salkantay Trail with for the next days. Eight Argentinians, two girls from Costa Rica, two from the Netherlands, one Belgian and me, the German. Our guide thought it was funny to make our team name "The Singles" after finding out all our relationship-statuses.
After only 30 minutes uphill our speed dating-group was already out of breath. Promising start.
The next hours were fine, mostly straight, over little waterfalls, nice views, which left only 45 cm to walk at some points.
In total we hiked 16 km and made it up to an altitude of 3900 m today. At first.
After reaching our first basecamp we had the option to hike up to the foot of the Humantay mountain to see a lake. It steep, it's kind of challenging, but it's worth it. That's what we've been told.
So in the afternoon, after a good lunch, we started going up with light backpacks.
After maybe one hour we reached the foot of the snowy mountain.
And it was worth it.

After going higher and higher, even climbing and slipping over debris, we were rewarded with a breathtaking view.

Shades of blue and green, still so light in the afternoon soon, shimmering in the clear lake, right at the foot of the impressing Humantay. It was incredible.
Some crazy people even dived into the lake.

On the way down the euphoria, the endorphins were still rushing through my blood, I couldn't stop smiling.

It is freezing cold by now, but that's pretty much the only "downside". But  I guess it wouldn't be an actual hiking experience in the mountains if it was warm.

Before dinner we were hanging out by the campsite, with a guy from the other group telling us about his spiritual three-day-journey with his girlfriend. They did the Ayawaska, where you basically get rid of all your demons by puking your guts out while having hallucinations after having a certain mixture of a poisonous plant.
Well, there's more to it, of course.

By the end of the night, just a few minutes ago, I was lucky enough to see the most beautiful night sky that I could ever imagine. I can see the milky way, so clearly, shooting stars, and so many stars that you're not even able to see any constellations. Such beauty, once again.

Now a few more degrees (so apparently it was freaking -15 degrees!) and everything would be perfect.

I'm ready for the next days on the Salkantay Trail!

Today started pretty laid-back. I packed my backpack for the trip, edited some photos and went to the city center to buy a warm jacket, I figured I can't go without. After going through all the shops that sell way overpriced North Face products (I love the brand, but in some shops they asked for twice as much as it would be online!) I finally found one with a variety of outdoor-clothes.

Afterwards I stopped by the market to buy another warm sweater, but got interrupted all of the sudden by a... parade?

Accompanied by drums and brass instruments, a crowd of masked people danced around the corner. They gathered at the market place, in the middle a man in a dress, wearing a black veil, handing out coca leaves to his entourage. The other men, and the kids, were wearing white knitted masks that only left their eyes uncovered. They reminded me of the anonymous-mask.
Also, besides the masks, they all wore traditional, colorful clothes, some had rectangular hats made out of beads and all kinds of decoration and, most peculiar: dead baby alpacas on their backs.

Every now and then they started dancing again, even to the soundtrack of the pink panther, apparently they waited on someone or something.
After a few minutes a car drove up and some assistants carried all sorts of things upstairs. A golden, embroidered fleece, a bunch of long strings made out of feathers, which later decorated a sarcophagus-like wooden cross.

Unfortunately none of the people watching the spectacle near me could explain what this was about.
I'll research it when I have the time when I'm back from the trail. It left me utterly confused, but I'm glad that I was at the right time at the right spot to witness this unique event.

Only after the crowd continued to dance down the street, I noticed there was a Michael Jackson-imitator right next to us as well. Equipped with some delicious churros from a street vendor (I kind of stopped being extremely cautious about the food, I'll let you know if that was a bad idea!) I stayed to watch him for a while, and over all the craziness in this place, I almost forgot the sweater.

I met up with a guide who informed me about the trek that I'll start tomorrow. I learned that I'm pretty screwed without a second backpack, but hey, I'll make it work somehow. I always do.

I'm beyond excited about this adventure!

Less excited to get up at 3.30 am. Yay.

// July 30th - Cusco //



A whole bunch of stars covered the city on my offline map, mostly in the historical center. 
On the to do list for today - all the museums! 
My host Mery and I started the day with laughter. She served me "jugo con piña y tuna", and the first thing crossing my mind was of course the fish (even though it's atún). Thank you for the explanation, that they call the fruit of the prickly pear, a cactus, tuna. 
Nevertheless this conversation, as well as those with some locals later this day, made me realize that my Spanish skills are still somewhere in my brain, I just have to keep on working - and speaking. I even paid two Soles less in the cab when I talked Spanish to the driver. 

So, after el desayuno I headed to the first star on my map - the "Museo del Arte popular". Unfortunately the entrance fee for non-Peruvians was 180 Soles - over $50. Since I'm trying to keep this at a budget, I skipped this museum. 
Instead I visited the Iglesia de La Compañía de Jesús first. No pictures allowed inside, but let me tell you, the 21 m golden Altarpiece was more than impressive. 
From the windows, where you're allowed to take photos, I had a nice view over the Plaza de Armas. 
Less impressive since you're not in a 445 year old church, but still nice: the views from the second floor of Starbucks (I feel like that's literally the only place with working wifi in the whole city) right next to the church, and the organic restaurant "Greens", where I got the only spot on the balcony for lunch. 

While the other two museums I visited afterwards were mostly archaeological exhibitions. 
Both left a lasting impression though: I still shiver when I think about the mummies in the "Museo Inka". They literally had a room of mummies, just a meter away, separated from the visitors by a wall with glass windows. Their faces distorted, grey shreds of skin, muscles and hair still attached to the body. The mummy of a child right next to a grown up that looked like Edvard Munch saw this face when he painted "The Scream". 

Way easier to enjoy was the little clay hut in the "Museo de Arte Precolombino". The friendly Peruvian inside first explained all the different music instruments inside, and then went over to demonstrate. Sitting on a bench covered in llama fur, listening to him playing tiny ocarinas and larger vasija silbadoras ("whistling vessels") was jaw dropping yet relaxing. It's unbelievable how those instruments not only play beautiful music, but also are able to imitate the animal that they're shaped as. A howling coyote, a busy woodpecker, all kinds of birds... 

The last item on my list for that day was Quorikancha, the temple of the sun. To be honest - this was rather disappointing. The history itself is interesting. The temple was dedicated to the Sun God, Inti. The only thing left of the ancient temple that was once covered in silver and gold are the ruins of chambers on both sides. A guide explained how these ruins are the base of the Church de Santo Domingo, that the Spanish conquistadores build. The church was pretty much destroyed by two earthquakes, but the massive stone walls of the Inca temple still remained intact. 
But the fact that this site is literally covered in tourists, shoving and pushing each other around, makes the visit not really enjoyable. Even to enter you have to zigzag around massive tourist groups, locals who're selling churros, sunglasses and alpaca sweaters or even the actual alpacas that some of them carry with them, to earn a few soles with every tourist that wants to take a picture with them. Which is illegal, by the way, because when the local police drove by suddenly all the baby alpacas were hidden underneath their ponchos.
Seriously, the 16th chapel in Vatican City wasn't as crowded as Quorikancha. 

Later that evening, after getting lost in the streets and going from shop to shop asking for wifi, I finally found my way to the apartment of the Canadians, and the night ended with a few cervezas, the smallest taco that I ever ate and rounds of pictionary and "Heads up" in a small Mexican restaurant. 

Ready for day four!











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