// August 9th - Chichén Itzá, México // 



I'm sitting in the shade of the ancient site Chichén Itzá,  another wonder of the world, facing the Maya pyramid, "El Castillo".
Everything that I know by now about Chichén Itzá and the Mayas is basically coming from Wikipedia and the internet in general. There are not many signs about the buildings around, and a guided tour was 700 Mexican Pesos, too much for me alone. But anyways. 

It's not like you get used to seeing those things while traveling. It still feels amazing to discover those cultures, ancient and modern ones. 
For now I'm just sitting here, enjoying the view, and I'm kind of amused about all those tourist groups with neon-colored numbers on their chest. And every five minutes another group walks up to the pyramid, clapping like crazy, to discover that it has certain acoustics. 
Chichén Itzá is pretty touristy in general. When you enter the site, you have to pass a market at first. It's really cheap, but since I don't have any space for even the smallest souvenir, it gets really annoying when you just stop for a second and five guys jump at you, yelling prizes at you, "Espanol, espanol!? Bonita, bonita! Eh chica! De donde eres? Good prize, good prize! 2 Dollars! If you don't have a boyfriend 1 Dollar!" I'm not kidding here. While I get a flashback to the time my father was haggling with a man about the price for selling me on a Turkish market (wasn't so funny for me dad!), I tried to pass all those stands as fast as possible. I feel rude not replying when someone is talking to me, but seriously, at some point I'm just fed up. 
When I met a Mexican girl in front of the pyramid we walked around a little bit together, and since she was looking for souvenirs, I got to look at the jewelry, wooden masks and ocarinas (that sounded like a wild cat) a little bit as well, since they were concentrating on the person who actually wanted to buy something. Overall a bit exhausting. 

Despite the fact that my host locked himself in the bathroom today and only escaped after I handed him a knife and a bobby pin this day didn't have any funny or peculiar stories today. Good, because I started to feel like I'm in a slapstick movie.

I'm leaving México tomorrow morning to México City - Los Angeles - Phoenix. I had a great time in Cancún, but way too short, so I definitely have to come back here and to México in general. 
I love couchsurfing or staying with Airbnb. You meet new like-minded people all the time, with interesting backgrounds. We were sitting in the garden every night, talking and exchanging exciting stories. You don't get that in a hotel. 

Traveling alone doesn't equal actually being alone. Still, after being surrounded by hundreds and hundreds of people for the past year, I'm looking forward to some silence on the road trip as well. 

// August 8th - Tulum, México //



Since all bus tickets to Chichen Itzá were sold out for today, Karla and I bought some to Tulum instead, another archaeological site with ancient Maya ruins.

The trip started kind of bumpy. We got ripped off, because a guy sold us a boat tour as an educational experience where we could learn about the ruins from a Mayan guide. In addition we would have the option to snorkel. But that wouldn't be such a big part of the trip, he said, after we told him we don't have swimwear with us. So, we booked the tour.

When we got on the boat, party music was playing, everyone was wearing swimsuits, people were asking when we go snorkeling already, and nobody spoke English.
They didn't explain anything at all, they just drove up to a spot where we could the the largest ruin from the waterside, pushed everyone to the front to take a picture and as soon as that was done, they already turned around the boat. One moment, please...

We asked the "guide" about the explanations about the pyramids. We weren't here to snorkel after all. He was baffled. Helplessly seeking eye contact with the other "guide". Asking the captain. He didn't know anything about it. Oh, and as mentioned - nobody spoke a single word in English.
He started, stuttering "Well, uh, this is a Mayan Pyramid. It's old." WOAH NO WAY, I learnt so much!
Actually, he realized that it was a pretty stupid idea, talked to the captain again and when the boat turned around, he just said that they're taking us back to the beach, we basically didn't have anything to say. And also he explained that they have this problem with the guy who sold us the tour quite frequently.
Back at the beach we explained the situation and they reimbursed us, half of the price we paid for the tour. At least this covered our lunch, some ice cream and the cover for the actual archaeological site.

The ruins were pretty impressive to see, they were well preserved, some even still had some colored handprints on them. Which made me wonder what exactly they used to create this color (it's a plant called achiote) and if they were ever able to wash it off their hands (haven't found an answer).

After spending most of the day at the ruins, at the beach of Tulum and talking, recapping our life at Disney, we had a great day after all.

I guess I'll just stay away from dodgy boat tours from now on.

// August 7th - Cancún //




When you try to keep a trip on a budget you're happy about every good deal you get. 
So when my Airbnb host offered me to take me and some others to a promising trip for way less than you'd usually pay for a tour like this, I gladly accepted. As mentioned yesterday, the plan was: Swimming with whale sharks, heading to Isla Mujeres, snorkeling, visiting the underwater museum and cruising through the mangroves.

We got up at 5 in the morning. My German host, a Polish and a Bulgarian girl and I took a cab, until our host stopped the driver which seemed to be at some random spot in the streets, but actually there was someone waiting for him in a parked pick up truck. So far, so good.
We walked through a rusty fence, met up with an American guy and his Danish girlfriend who joined us, played with two adorable puppies and waited for our boat to show up behind all those scruffy fisher boats. Didn't happen. We got into one of those nutshells, paint chipping off, and drove off into the sunrise. Feeling the breeze on my face, the feeling of joy made me smile. 

To find the whale sharks the plan was to wait for the other boats, official tours, who communicate with their radios, and just drive to the same spot they're going to. 
The problem was: There were no other boats. 
Also, when I asked how he navigates, I got the expected but also feared answer: by sun. Well,   at least I hiked up Machu Picchu before, so I can kind of die in peace I guess.

After about two hours, or maybe more, or less, I don't know, the sun was rising dangerously close to it's highest point. When our guide / host / master of disaster said that he already used up all the gas that he usually needs for the whole tour, I seriously began to worry. 
Luckily I was also so tired from the journey the day before that I laid down on the boat to sleep. I figured that the expected discussion who's going to be our first dinner would be loud enough to wake me up just in time to vote. 

Instead I woke up when we finally saw an island in the distance. Since the chance that we'd end up as each other's dinner or being surprised by a sharknado decreased immensely, so I finally took a big gulp of the water I saved in case we'd have to share it for the next weeks. Okay, I'm exaggerating (am I...?) but I was seriously relieved when we actually made it to that island. 

While approaching the beach of Isla Mujeres, where we wanted to stop so he could buy more gas, an official looking guy (he had a clip board! Everyone with a clip board looks official!) took pictures of the boat. Oh great, it's not over yet. He made a call and started a discussion on Spanish. Who's boat is this? - My friend's boat. - The boat is not registered. - Well, it's not mine. - Are they tourists? - No, they are my friends. - Living here? - No, visiting. - So tourists. So the five of us tried really hard to look like friends. Well, actually, the couple didn't, they were majorly pissed that we didn't see whale sharks. 

While our host was absolutely unimpressed by the guy with the clip board, we went to a little market to buy some snacks. When we returned, the boat had enough gas for the rest of the trip and our host didn't wear handcuffs, so we continued. 
For me, the experience took a turn now. While snorkeling at a little reef we saw many fish, some giant and colorful like blue and purple, others smaller but in big swarms. Floating in the water for a while, it was pretty peaceful. Until an apparently blind fish swam right into me while he was doing some kind of a barrel roll, I don't know who was more confused. 

We got back on the boat and drove to another part of the island, the underwater museum. The artist, Jason DeCaires Taylor, created some statues and places them deep enough in the sea that it was really hard to see when you're strangled by the life vest we had to wear. But safety begins with me as every good cast member will know. 
So, from above I saw the collection of statues that represent some Mexican people, and a VW beetle. I'm sure diving there is a lot of fun, snorkeling is rather a case of "Been there, done that", but it was still nice.

Afterwards we were just hanging out in the mangroves, which reminded me of the Weeki Wachee or Blue Springs back home in Orlando. No gators or manatees here though, but we saw many tiny neon-colored fish and two pipe fish. 
As an excuse that the whale shark-snorkeling didn't work out our host invited us for dinner. Seafood-Ceviche and fish, exactly what you need after a trip like that. This time I'm not sarcastic - We were the only tourists, so when a place is that crowded with locals you know it's good. 

Later we found out that unfortunately the port was still closed today due to the hurricane last week. Since they don't announce that until 8.30 though, when we were already on the water, there was no chance of knowing that there wouldn't be any other boats. 

Overall we still got a memorable day and a nice snorkeling trip out of it. 
A different kind of adventure to start my first visit to México. 

// August 4th - Machu Picchu // Altitude 2430 m // Out of the travel journal //




I'm beyond exhausted. As planned, we woke up at 3.30 am and started walking to the gate where they checked the passports shortly after 4 am. Now, in the dark, early (way too early after the last night!) morning, we began the ascent. Over 3000 steps separated us, still at an altitude of 2040 m, from the top of the mountain with 2430 m to reach Machu Picchu, high up in the clouds. Of course after so much walking nobody wanted to give up on the last day and take the bus.

// August 3rd - Aguas Calientes // Altitude 2040 m // Out of the travel journal //



I woke up with fever and nausea. I was mad. I didn't want to give up. But also I had to keep in mind that there were still another 43 days of traveling ahead of me. Since a few people got sick I knew there was a bus going to our lunch spot, which otherwise would be a 16 km hike through the jungle. It took me a lot to get over my pride, but at some point I gave in and took the bus. So did one of the Argentinians. 

So both of us got off the bus, joined the group who still were at the end of the street, and  started our still 15.2 km or so hike into the heart of the jungle. 


After two minutes later we passed the first waterfall. After five minutes we passed our group. After eight minutes we stopped in a small village to pick up way too many locals. My legs felt restless, I was squirrelly, caught up in an inner discussion, pondering, until I finally bursted out "Quiero caminar!". 

Passing waterfalls, avocado and banana trees and coffee plants. 
It was really warm, such a difference to the day before, we hiked in shirts and shorts and stopped for a break to bath our feet in an ice cold stream of water.
We continued our way over scary bridges made out of straw and dirt, we saw hummingbirds and enjoyed great views over the Lluskamayo River. 
Wether it was the medicine or the endorphins, or both, the hike wasn't bad at all. 
It was a bit hilly, "Peruvian flat", and when we reached the lunch place, Playa, at an easy altitude of 2250 m, we weren't even out of breath. 

After great ceviche we took a van to the hydroelectric station. Also an adventure. With the curtains in the back closed, the driver drove backwards, with the cliff down the jungle right next to us, to move out of the way for another car. Pretty scary. 
The rest of the kind of short drive was spent either sleeping or laughing about the continuous honking and the 90ies music.

Afterwards we hiked for about three hours for another 10 or 11 km, following the tracks of the PeruRail, on the way we also got a first glimpse at Machu Picchu, it was so far up in the mountains. 

We reached Aguas Calientes not long after the sunset. After a very rude welcome in the hostel my room / tent mate Sabine took a cold shower, since we had no hot water. In Aguas Calientes, insert silly pun here.

We told one of the employees, she turned on the water - this time it was hot. 
So she told us that we have to use the red knob. No way. Thank you lady, I've been wondering for the past 25 years why there's a blue and a red one. 

Later we went for a pretty crappy dinner before drowning the shock over Peruvian service in some cervezas in a nearby bar. After those, some impressive dance skills of the Costa Rican girls and less impressive dance moves of the poor kitten that the DJ brought with him, we went to bed way too late, which left about 3 hours of sleep. 

But who needs sleep anyways if the next adventure awaits? 

// August 2nd - Salkantay Pass // Altitude 4630 m // Out of the travel journal //



"You will go back as a different person. Leave worries, pain and negativity behind. Let us pray to the mountains."
Salkantay. Humantay. Tucarhuay. Urubamba.
The four sacred mountains that surrounded us. At an altitude of 4630 m, we blew our coca leaves that would be a gift for the Pachamama, while turning into the direction of each mountain.
Then we thanked the four mountains, before placing the leaves and the rocks that we picked, building a cairn.

We reached the top around 9.30 am, after about 3.5 h of hiking. It was hard, a very steep, challenging hike, over frozen waterfalls, rocks, slipping - but never falling - over and over again.
And it was freezing cold, especially after a night with maybe 2 hours of sleep before. Our cold feet just didn't let us sleep. I was wearing three pairs of socks in the night, and ended up even putting my gloves over my feet and wrapping my scarf around it.

But already on the way to the top we were rewarded with so many amazing views. The Salkantay, in the distance at first, which glowed in a mystical pink in the early morning light. We walked about two hours before the first sunrays started to warm our faces.
And when we finally reached the top, the highest point of our trail, I felt so incredibly lucky, happy, incredible. I was so overwhelmed.

After the last people of our group got there we sat down with our guide to learn about the mountains surrounding us, Cusco and the Inka culture, before we held the little ceremony.

Down to our lunch place wasn't hard at all, and again we had this beautiful landscape around us.
From about 3900 m and after a few hours of hiking we started the descent, into the jungle.

After about two more hours it got harder, too, it was tough on our knees.
We pushed through, until we reached our camp for the night, another three hours, in total 22 km for this day. Going from 4600 to 2900 m the sudden change of altitude made quite a few people sick. I also started feeling uneasy, but I took some medicine so hopefully it will be better tomorrow.

The views of the landscapes today were unforgettable.
The mountains, so high, you feel so unimportant, your worries or mistakes pointless. And I was proud that I kept pushing myself, even though I feel like I didn't completely reach my limit yet.
We saw amazing, wonderful pictures that nature painted for us.

At some point two porters passed us, playing Madonna's "Like a virgin" on their portable speakers. And then - silence again. For a long time. And despite traveling in a group I felt alone with my thoughts, content.

I'm so grateful that I'm experiencing this.

// August 1st - Foot of the Humantay Mountain // Altitude 3900 m // Out of the travel journal //


Euphoria. A single word to describe this day. Everything. The nature. The emotions. It's perfection.  Okay, sure, the start early this morning was, well, chaotic.
I got picked up from my Airbnb around 5 am and we picked up two other travelers at the market place where I witnessed the crazy scene the day before. One of them was German, the other one was one of the Canadians I met the night before.
We drove to Mollepata to get some breakfast, pure chaos, no cambio, but we made it on the bus that took us to the starting point eventually. We met the group that we'd walk the Salkantay Trail with for the next days. Eight Argentinians, two girls from Costa Rica, two from the Netherlands, one Belgian and me, the German. Our guide thought it was funny to make our team name "The Singles" after finding out all our relationship-statuses.
After only 30 minutes uphill our speed dating-group was already out of breath. Promising start.
The next hours were fine, mostly straight, over little waterfalls, nice views, which left only 45 cm to walk at some points.
In total we hiked 16 km and made it up to an altitude of 3900 m today. At first.
After reaching our first basecamp we had the option to hike up to the foot of the Humantay mountain to see a lake. It steep, it's kind of challenging, but it's worth it. That's what we've been told.
So in the afternoon, after a good lunch, we started going up with light backpacks.
After maybe one hour we reached the foot of the snowy mountain.
And it was worth it.

After going higher and higher, even climbing and slipping over debris, we were rewarded with a breathtaking view.

Shades of blue and green, still so light in the afternoon soon, shimmering in the clear lake, right at the foot of the impressing Humantay. It was incredible.
Some crazy people even dived into the lake.

On the way down the euphoria, the endorphins were still rushing through my blood, I couldn't stop smiling.

It is freezing cold by now, but that's pretty much the only "downside". But  I guess it wouldn't be an actual hiking experience in the mountains if it was warm.

Before dinner we were hanging out by the campsite, with a guy from the other group telling us about his spiritual three-day-journey with his girlfriend. They did the Ayawaska, where you basically get rid of all your demons by puking your guts out while having hallucinations after having a certain mixture of a poisonous plant.
Well, there's more to it, of course.

By the end of the night, just a few minutes ago, I was lucky enough to see the most beautiful night sky that I could ever imagine. I can see the milky way, so clearly, shooting stars, and so many stars that you're not even able to see any constellations. Such beauty, once again.

Now a few more degrees (so apparently it was freaking -15 degrees!) and everything would be perfect.

I'm ready for the next days on the Salkantay Trail!

Today started pretty laid-back. I packed my backpack for the trip, edited some photos and went to the city center to buy a warm jacket, I figured I can't go without. After going through all the shops that sell way overpriced North Face products (I love the brand, but in some shops they asked for twice as much as it would be online!) I finally found one with a variety of outdoor-clothes.

Afterwards I stopped by the market to buy another warm sweater, but got interrupted all of the sudden by a... parade?

Accompanied by drums and brass instruments, a crowd of masked people danced around the corner. They gathered at the market place, in the middle a man in a dress, wearing a black veil, handing out coca leaves to his entourage. The other men, and the kids, were wearing white knitted masks that only left their eyes uncovered. They reminded me of the anonymous-mask.
Also, besides the masks, they all wore traditional, colorful clothes, some had rectangular hats made out of beads and all kinds of decoration and, most peculiar: dead baby alpacas on their backs.

Every now and then they started dancing again, even to the soundtrack of the pink panther, apparently they waited on someone or something.
After a few minutes a car drove up and some assistants carried all sorts of things upstairs. A golden, embroidered fleece, a bunch of long strings made out of feathers, which later decorated a sarcophagus-like wooden cross.

Unfortunately none of the people watching the spectacle near me could explain what this was about.
I'll research it when I have the time when I'm back from the trail. It left me utterly confused, but I'm glad that I was at the right time at the right spot to witness this unique event.

Only after the crowd continued to dance down the street, I noticed there was a Michael Jackson-imitator right next to us as well. Equipped with some delicious churros from a street vendor (I kind of stopped being extremely cautious about the food, I'll let you know if that was a bad idea!) I stayed to watch him for a while, and over all the craziness in this place, I almost forgot the sweater.

I met up with a guide who informed me about the trek that I'll start tomorrow. I learned that I'm pretty screwed without a second backpack, but hey, I'll make it work somehow. I always do.

I'm beyond excited about this adventure!

Less excited to get up at 3.30 am. Yay.